Haridwar An Amazing Place To Visit (By Ginny Bansal (24th December, 2007))I recently visited Haridwar. It is considered one of the most sacred places. People from all over come to wash away their sins it is nearly 250 kms. From Delhi. You can also attend the aarti that usually is scheduled to take place in the evening or early morning. People consider that by taking a bath in this Ganga water people get a chance to wash away their sins, this place is always flooded with people irrespective of the seasons.
Another place that is very close by to Haridwar is Mansa Devi. People carry water from the Ganges to their homes because it is considered to be very pure. I think a traveler should visit this destination because this place serves the best example for unity in diversity since you can find here people from all places irrespective of there backgrounds.
Kumbh Mela-2010 at HaridwarI was at Haridwar for 2 days very recently, and had the opportunity to attend the Kumbh Mela -2010. I must thank those who made it possible; otherwise, on my own it would have been impossible to make this trip.
How to GoFor most of India, Delhi is the connecting point; I would any day prefer trains than the road route, the distance between Delhi and Haridwar is just around 210 KMs, however, the journey time is not less then 8 to 10 hours by road. I had on an earlier occasion the privilege of missing the flight from Delhi to Hyderabad for wrongly estimating road journey. This time around was careful in choosing train as a mode of travel between Delhi and Haridwar. If you want to travel by Air…Dehradun is the nearest Air port.
Where to StayAccommodation is available in plenty, one can choose either a tent house or an ashram or for that matter hotel rooms. If you plan in advance, you are sure of good accommodation. Otherwise, thousands of tent houses are pitched by hundreds of Mutts and Akharas, pilgrims are whole heartedly welcome to stay there, in-fact hundreds of advts are displaying appeal to the pilgrims to stay with them. I am not sure about the safety and security, I suppose that is taken care.
Significance of Kumbh MelaProbably very few can authentically place an exact date of the origin of Kumbh Mela(??) However the earliest recordings in Buddhist texts of 600 BC speaks of it……..Jayanth son of Indra in the form of Garuda carried the jar or Kumbh filled with Amrit, protected by Sun, Moon, Jupiter and Saturn around the earth for 12 day& night(equivalent of 12 years) protecting from the attacking Asuras post Samudra manthan- few drops of Amrit fell on Tribakkeshwar, Ujjain, Triveni Sangam,Allahbad and Haridwar. These places became the sites of the four Kumbh Mela festivals, at an interval of 3 years, thus getting repeated once in 12 years at the same location.
For time immemorial, this is the time the religious heads of different sects would camp for the duration and exchange views on various aspects, the Mutts and Akhadas would elect their leaders through their panchayat system. For the common man, many of the sages would come in contact at one place otherwise these holy men remain secluded in remote places for penance.
The most sought-after are the Naga sadhu’s. these holy men remain naked with ash smeared on their body. These sadhu’s are suppose to be the traditional army of lord Shiva,, very militant and with meteoric temperament.
The Shahi Snan(bathing) days are significant, one of them is falling on 15th Mar 2010, as is very auspicious day being Somvati Amavsya. The other important days being 24th Mar, 30th Mar,14th Apr and 28th Apr 10. The Sahi Snan starts with the first dip being taken by the Naga sadhu’s of various sects followed by other sets belonging to other Samradaya including Vishnavites. Last few years has seen orderly conduct of Kumbh as the order of Snan is pre-decided and administration makes sure its not violated. In the past clashes between different Akhadas over the right to bath first led to the death of many sadhu’s, thankfully its all well controlled now by the religious body of Akhadas.
The Haridwar Kumbh has seen many tragedies including massacre of Hindu’s by the thousands by Timur in 1398 AD, cholera in late 18th century…..and many clashes between different sects.
However, the magic of Ganges…brings rich and the poor irrespective of caste and creed assemble in millions all across the subcontinent of India to take a dip in its holy waters……..mind you the water remains ice cold but people dare to plunge themselves with ”Har …Har Gange…” on the lips…..to me, this was astonishing to see kids ,young and old braving alike taking a dip with enthusiasm.
The Govt of Uttaranchal has done a good job till now in managing the Mela affairs, there is a very heavy security covers all across. The proof of the arrangements would be tested on 15th Mar 10, when the shahi snan is scheduled.
I have taken few snaps of the event, however, many snaps that I felt were important could not be taken due to discharge of battery, especially of the camp sites and some of the sadhu’s were important subject for the camera……may be another Kumbh……..perhaps in 2013 at the next venue!
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Haridwar, “Gateway To The Lord”Before leaving Rishikesh, we paid a visit to Sivanandashram, going first to the Satsang Hall & Samadhi Mandir, where Swami Sivananda's body is enshrined. A puja was taking place in honor of the master when we arrived. We stayed to receive the light after the arati, then circumambulated his Samadhi, took prasad & left. Next we visited the main temple, then the Bhajan Hall, where the Mahamantra (Hare Rama Hare Rama Rama Rama Hare Hare / Hare Krishna Hare Krishna Krishna Krishna Hare Hare) is chanted continuously 24-hours-a-day, in shifts. Toward the back of the hall is a gallery of photos of many of the great saints of our time, including our Gurudeva. The altar includes Radha Krishna, Saraswati Devi & other forms of the Divine. On one side is a bed used by Swami Sivananda with his picture on it. It is wonderful just to sit there & bask in the holy vibrations, so permeated with the presence of the master & the holy names of God.
Taking the short (1-hour) drive to Haridwar, we checked into the Alakananda Guest House on the Ganga, right next to the Keshabananda Ashram, where a portion of Lahiri Mahasaya's ashes are enshrined. Haridwar, literally, "doorway to the Lord," is called Hari-dwar by devotees of Lord Vishnu (Vaishnavas), "Hari" meaning Vishnu as the "Stealer of Hearts." Devotees of Lord Shiva call it "Har-dwar," "Har" or "Hara" being a name of Shiva as the "Destroyer of Sorrow." Haridwar is a great holy city full of many ashrams & temples, a major pilgrimage destination in its own rite & the beginning of any pilgrimage higher up into the Himalayas. The second largest of the Kumbha Melas is held here once every 12-years.
Haridwar is famous for its Ganga Arati, worship of Ganga Maiya, held nightly at Har-ki-pari Ghat. Every night ,(except for a short period during the summer when the ghat is cleaned & repaired,) thousands of devotees & pilgrims gather about an hour before sunset. As the sky begins to darken, devotees bathe & offer diyas (leaf-boats with camphor flames) to the River. Chants are played over loudspeakers, such as Sri Hanuman Chalisa & others, as the spiritual energy continues to grow. Then, just as darkness descends, numerous priests, (I have counted as many as 16), come out from the ancient Ganga Mandir carrying huge flaming ghee lamps. It appears as though they are carrying campfires in their hands! The Ganga arati song is then played over the loudspeakers while all the thousands of pilgrims join in the singing & the priests wave their flaming lamps to Ma Ganga, swooping down to just skim the surface of the water: "Om Jai Ganga Mata / Maiya Jai Gange Mata!" The spiritual vibration & upliftment of consciousness one feels simply is beyond description. You will just have to go there & feel it for yourself! In just a few minutes the Arati is over & everyone dispersses -- until the next night.
We had very little time in Haridwar on this trip, but we were able to visit the ashram of Swami Keshabanandaji, the great disciple of Lahiri Mahasaya, which was next to our hotel. The ashes of Lahiri Baba are enshrined in four places in India & this is one of them. (One is in Puri & two are in Varanasi.) Swami (Brother) Achalanandaji mentions a wonderful spiritual experience he had while meditating at the shrine of Lahiri Mahasaya here. When we first arrived we didn't see anyone around so we opened the unlocked door of the dhyana mandir (meditation hall) & made our pranams to the life-sized (& very life-like!) statue of Swami Keshabanandaji Maharaj which adorns the altar. From somewhere appeared a very sweet swami who said his name was "Om Swami," a YSS member soon to be initiated into the YSS order. We had a wonderful & very uplifting informal satsang with him while he arranged for chai & cookies to be brought for us. He then gave us tilak (blessing with the mark of the spiritual eye) & presented all the men with rudraksha malas. What an unexpected, yet thoroughly delightful afternoon. After satsang we proceeded to the rooftop shrine of Lahiri Mahasaya for meditation.
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Holy RishikeshRishikesh is a holy town at the beginning of the Himalayan foothills which has been the abode of rishis, yogis & sadhus for a very long time. Although the name does seems to imply this, the word "rishikesh" actually means "one who can control his senses." Much attention was drawn to Rishikesh in this century as it was there that the great master, Swami Sivananda attained God-realization, established the Divine Life Society & built his ashram, drawing aspirants from all over India & abroad. The last 40-years, however, have seen a great many young people from the West -- hippies & tourists, as well as spiritual aspirants, converging on this picturesque town on the Ganga, spanned by two bridges, Ramjula & Lakshmanjula, & lined with ashrams & temples.
The Parmarth Niketan Ashram, where we stayed, is a beautiful, spacious ashram with nice rooms -- sort of a spiritual park, as it were, with many gardens & statues of the various avatars & forms of the Divine adorning the grounds. It includes its own private ghat (river access with steps for bathing), which is the scene of the nightly Ganga Arati, a beautiful, high-energy, congregational worship of Ganga Ma (Mother Ganges). In India one quickly comes to realize that all of nature is alive & holy: a direct manifestation of God, personified as Mother. Every river is a holy river, every mountain a holy mountain & every tree a holy tree. Nature's manifestations are living deities in India, not simply geographical landmarks!
As a guest in this Ashram, a guest is not required to attend any particular programs, although there are, of course, certain rules common to most spiritual communities. Attending the nightly Ganga Arati, however, is highly recommended. It begins before sunset with a yagna (Vedic fire ceremony). This is followed by the group chanting of certain prayers, hymns & bhajans, such as Sri Hanuman Chalisa & the Mahamantra. Then, as darkness settles over the river, the blazing ghee lamps are lit & ceremoniously waved to honor the Mother in the form of the River Ganga while the Ganga Arati song is being sung by all: Om Jai Gange Mata! Maiya Jai Gange Mata!" It is thrilling, indeed, to behold.
After the arati ceremony was completed upon the night of our arrival in the Ashram, we were invited to attend a satsang (informal gathering) with the founder of the Ashram, Swami Chidananda Muniji, on the patio of his kuti (room where spiritual practices are performed). Swamiji, who became a sadhu at the age of eight, has become well-known for his wonderful work for the upliftment of society in many way. He takes orphans from the street & enrolls them in the gurukul (spiritual school) in the Ashram where they are provided all that they need physically, as well as schooling & spiritual guidance. He calls them "rishi kumars," "children of the rishis," & literally transforms their lives. It is a joy to behold. He is currently arranging for a similar girl's school to be opened at a different location. He is the first Indian religious leader to be allowed, by the Chinese
government, to build an ashram at Lake Manasaravor near Mt.Kailash, which are in occupied Tibet. He was also one of the two Hindu saints who hosted the Dali Lama at
the Kumbha Mela at Prayag Raj in 2001, & is very much involved in the ecologically minded "green India" movement.
As a group. we were in Rishikesh for only 2-days, although Shivani & I returned for a stay of nearly 2-weeks before returning to the States in mid-December. Having spent 3-weeks together almost continuously, upon arriving in Rishikesh everyone in our group pretty much went their own way. Shivani & I spent time with our friend, Swami Bodhichitananda, visiting his beautiful kutir built on the cliff above the Ganga just down from Sivanandashram & just past the Kali Murti, a well-known roadside shrine to Goddess Kali. Swamiji was in the SRF Ashram in the States for a while but felt drawn to live in India. He lived at Sivanandashram for 10-years, taking sannyas (final vows of renunciation) from Sri Swami Chidananda Maharaj, successor to the great Swami Sivananda. In 2001 he began building his own small 3-room ashram (Kevalya Forest Ashram, which is very tranquil & secluded. As Swamiji points out, although his life is different from that of most SRF devotees, he is still a loyal disciple of SRF & practices the Kriya Yoga sadhana as
taught by our Guru.
NH58 Hwy, go 76 km.